Fortunately for you guys when I figure it out I shall provide a detailed setup guide, limited to using H-bridge PWM/DIR setup mode. So most of it I have to figure out via trial and error. The data provided that I could find from the original project is quite limited and does not explain anything at all.

Unfortunately a few minor things to sort out now, the accelerator pedal isn't registering (think its the pedal side not the controller) and the paddle buttons are't registering on the controller (wiring side, think they need to be pulled high but I set them as pull down to ground). Even at 30% the power is easily double that of the original DFGT motor. After tuning the wheel and setting it's power as low as 30% I was able to give the wheel a few laps and get a feel for it. It's like a gorilla was fighting me for the steering wheel. Luckily the MM went into thermal shutdown for about 3 seconds which gave me enough time to rip the power cord from the DC supply. Unknown to me the tuning software re set my wheel to 180 degrees rather than the 900 that it actually is so the steering was extremely sensitive in the game, when i hit the first curb and spun the car out over a curb (intentionally) the wheel just about tore itself from my hands, it was pants shittingly more powerful than I was expecting.

I didn't bother going into the wheel tuning and just started a game to test out the power. I finally sat down and plugged the wheel in. Boy did it only just fit! After spending most of the afternoon fitting the motor in Of course the tinkerer inside me thought that I could shoehorn the motor in place of the DFGT motor. In there I found quite a beast of a motor given its relatively small size. I was getting a bit impatient to start the full custom wheel so I decided to pop down to the local electronics store. May I introduce my DFGT BFM (Big F#*^n Motor)ĥ7W, 57A stall current! This thing is now an absolute beast.

Iracing force feedback test program